Melissa McCoy On Location from Fiji
~ May/June 2003 ~


Koro Sun Resort ~ Taveuni Island Resort ~ Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Island Resort
Matagi Island Resort ~ Qamea Beach Resort ~ Namale Fiji Resort & Spa ~ Sonaisali Island Resort
Sheraton Fiji Resort ~ Navini Island Resort ~ Toberua Island Resort

May 27, 2003 - Bula from Koro Sun Resort - Vanua Levu, Savu Savu , Fiji Islands
Our journey to Fiji from Honolulu was exciting... I was seeing the whole new experience through the eyes of one of my staff, a Fiji Vacation Consultant in my office, Jennifer Butterfield and her fiance Kalani. I have been to Fiji so many times that it is almost.... Almost.... Like clockwork. Jennifer and Kalani had subdued excitement... Is it really happening.. Are we really going.... The dream of Fiji and their secret (that we all knew) that they would marry at Taveuni Island Resort on May 29. I cannot even begin to explain how fun it was for me to share in their excitement.

We arrived in Fiji to a pristine day with a coolness in the air. Everything went like clock work even with the airport under construction. Jennifer and Kalani boarded an Air Fiji flight to Taveuni and I took Sun Air to Savu Savu where I would enjoy 2 nights at the Koro Sun Resort..

Koro Sun Resort is a 3 star resort 20 minutes from the Savu Savu airport. This is my first time to stay at the resort although I have site inspected it a couple times. This trip... I am to discover all the reasons why we should recommend Koro Sun to our clients who want a unique Fiji experience without a 5 star budget.

My bure is a white washed plantation style bungalow with a small fenced in grass area, set in lush gardens with vibrant flowers everywhere. The interior is graced with a bamboo four poster bed with white mosquito netting softly draped ... creating a romantic feeling. They have added some sweet little touches with coconut furniture and “Fijian designer” lamps using Fiji red clay and tapa cloth. The river rock outdoor shower adds the final touch to an affordable, desirable, and very comfortable accommodation.

After a nap and a shower to relieve some of the jet lag, I joined some new friends for lunch which was a real treat. Chilled carrot soup (with a touch of curry), pesto pasta (basil with a hint of lemon grass) and lemon cake (shhhh... I’m suppose to be on a diet). The food is much better than 3 star. After lunch, I walked around the expansive property which boasts a picturesque 9 hole golf course that is surrounded by jungle, dotted with swaying palms with melodious birds songs filling the air. It was the perfect day.. my eyes were filled with glistening sunlight as 30 shades of green blended to create a feeling of peace and serenity. I was then off to the Rainforest waterfall massage gazebo... a 5 minute drive into the rainforest and 5 minute walk along the jungle path. Filtered sunlight danced on the waterfall... with the massage table set up almost stream side. I enjoyed the Paradise Found – which is a Seaweed and Ti Leaf body wrap... A puree of green slathered all over my body.. then wrapped in giant banana and ti leaves (neatly tied up with string). I layed there with the sound of the waterfall and the soft rustling of wind in the forest canopy... being renewed from the outside and inside. The “puree” also had fresh watermelon and cucumber mixed in whose healing powers and smells worked magic to remove jet lag and to regenerate. After my massage I enjoyed the Papaya Enzyme Facial for 1/2 hour. Remember... I only do this for the good of the company so I can report back to everyone what to expect at Fiji’s resorts!

In front of the resort is a road... which sees about 1 car every 1/2 hour. On the other side of the road is the ocean. I cannot call Koro Sun a oceanfront resort but what it is is..... an oceanfront resort if you walk across the road. All Bures have an ocean view and the sound of the pulsing ocean in the lagoon in front of the resort is constant. There is a small marina, dive shop, kayaks and waterfront beach chairs and chaise lounges. 2 small islands sit offshore on the far end of the lagoon. The snorkeling at high tide (the lagoon is a little bit too shallow at low tide) is pristine and colorful. We decided to go with Dick, the Activities Director, for a kayak excursion to Lotu island. Kayaking is also a high tide activity. We enjoyed a fun paddle to Lotu, a little kayak wave riding (in 6 inch waves), saw some fruit bats (they are harmless and like to hang upside down in trees), pigeons and doves, a tiny little baby shark (harmless), took a little dip in the shallow water by Lotu island and then a brisk paddle to the other island where we maneuvered through small rock islands. It was easy and fun and beautiful. Getting out and enjoying nature is such a great part of Fiji and Koro Sun offers more nature than many other resorts in Fiji.

Although the sun sets behind the resort, the sunset colors with pink hues surrounded us as we sat at “Loloma Point” (Lovers Point) at oceans edge... enjoying a Tropical Rum Punch, listening to the wild screeches of the colorful Kula Birds as they darted between the towering palms and feeling our spirits soar as the melodious Vanua Levu honeycreeper filled with air with angelic song.

During dinner the Koro Sun band boys serenaded us with perfect vocal harmonies, ukulele and guitar tunes in between rounds of Kava drinking, clapping (you clap after you drink a bowl of Kava) and fun interaction. Dinner was very good with the highlight being a perfectly prepared Mahi Mahi on garlic mashed potatoes with grilled veggies... complimented by a Barossa Valley Cab/merlot blend from Australia (I like red wine with everything).

I dreamily meandered back to my Bure... so many stars... so many soft feelings of enchantment... of renewed love for these Fiji islands... I am so glad that I came to Koro Sun Resort... They have created their own oasis.. unique and special in so many ways... Tomorrow I will join other guests on a waterfall hike and village visit. I look forward to it....

Moce mataka (good bye until tomorrow)
Melissa McCoy
On Location in Fiji

On my second day at Koro Sun, the morning slipped away as I relaxed and sipped coffee in my little garden. About 9am we packed up to take a 1 hour drive into the lower interior of the island where we hiked to a jungle waterfall. Our Fijian guides took us deeper into the jungle weaving along a meandering stream. The waterfall had a deep pool below and we spent about an hour jumping in, watching an abundance of prawns dart between our feet and talking with Maxine, a fun Fijian lady who’s family had owned this property for decades. After the hike we spent time with the whole family on their porch and ate lunch, hearing tales of old Fiji and enjoying the pristine sparkling sun dance on the jungle foliage. It was a perfect day.

We got back to the resort in enough time to clean up for the weekly managers cocktail party. Tonight it was on an elevated lot above the resort. What an incredible view! There were several couples, 2 that were honeymooners. All guests were divers but not the “must dive every day kind...” Some tried their hand at the 9 hole jungle golf course... Taking lessons from VeeJay (not VJ Singh). Everyone loved it at the resort. Dinner was good and the band boys played more great music.

The next morning (day 3) we took a hike around the property to another accessible waterfall. Then it was off to Taveuni in the AM. The flight was incredible flying low along miles of reef and shades of blue that you couldn’t count. There was not a breath of wind... And everything sparkled... No matter how many times I make this journey, I am always on the edge of my chair, face smashed against the airplane window. I smile from ear to ear when we land at the Taveuni Matei airstrip which is hewn between tall strands of coconut palms. I smile watching those who are first time visitors. I am forever fascinated with the remoteness, the magnitude of size, the slow but steady spread of humanity and encroaching civilization. Sad in some ways .... Exciting and exhilarating in others. When Michael and I first came to these islands there was no TV, butter came in a can, cheese was one flavor (and it was darn good) and women (locals and visitors) had to keep their shoulders and knees covered when in Nadi, the airport and in villages. So much has changed and yet so much of what we fell in love with 12 years ago is still here. The friendly Fijian people... Bula! Bula Vinaka.... Now I enjoy learning Fijian words... Beautiful water is “wai rai rai vinaka”, I am full is
“ sa mamau”, I am finished is “sa ote” . One, two, three... “Dua, rua, tolu... “ It’s exciting after all these years to grasp words with ease. For me, it is a renewed relationship with one of my favorite places on this earth.

Okay, back to day 3.... Here at Taveuni Island Resort you are face to face with the most fantastic views in all of Fiji. Looking out over the Somo Somo Straits, you see many hues of blue and green and then the massive Vanua Levu as far as the eyes can see from left to right. Jennifer (from our Hawaii office) and her fiancé are off horseback riding. They went with Tomasi ... An hour drive to take an hour horseback ride in the highland area at the far end of the island. Today, Jennifer and Kalani will marry at sunset. I am almost as excited as if it was my own daughter. Jennifer is a doll and one of our Fiji Specialists. So, while I wait for the big event, I found myself a place by the Infinity swimming pool that is on the edge of the cliff here. It just happens to be the most awesome pool in Fiji. Later I walked the beach and collected the fragrant “vutu” flower which drops from giant trees that grow near the waters edge. I love the Vutu flowers and decide that the resort must create a facial that incorporates use of these soft fragrant flowers. The resort was kind enough to put me in the new Luxury Villa, Matalau. Wow! I have 2 oceanview bedrooms, a giant lounge inside and deck outside, 2 outside rock river showers and an effervescent plunge pool. With a glass of New Zealand Esk Valley chardonnay, I sit in my very own plunge pool with the view to die for and start counting blessings.

As sunset approaches, the staff are scurrying to get everything set up on the cliffs edge for a perfect sunset wedding. And surprise, here comes Ron from Qamea Beach Resort. Jennifer and Kalani had been at Qamea before coming to Taveuni Island Resort. It doesn’t take long to become fast friends here. So Ron and I were the official photographers. He with their video camera, and me with their regular camera and my own video camera. The wedding was beautiful with Fijian songs being sung by 4 ladies from the church... The sunset was glorious. Kalani and Jennifer’s first kiss as husband and wife was worthy of asking for a repeat... Just to make sure I got it on video! Boy oh boy, did I cry!!! I am so glad I was here to be part of it. Jennifer and Kalani had dinner in the Lover’s Bure, which is a thatched open deck that hangs over the ocean. It is a great location. (I am having a massage there today!) Ron and I had a little bit to eat and then he was off to his own resort. Keep in mind, at night... 20 minute drive to the beach where his boat waited to take him another 20 minutes to his island resort. Things are a little different here in Fiji.

Day 4.... The first sunlight filters through morning clouds and the view outside my bedroom is still gorgeous. I took a walk, barefooted, on the damp emerald green grass and the tropical morning breeze swept over me... And there on the palms was the friendly Taveuni parrot I have seen before. Just enough of a tease to get me going... I miss my bird! Unfortunately he is not very friendly and I cannot get a bird fix. I have a massage scheduled for 11:30 on the lover’s bure overlooking the beach. I must go now... To prepare to be pampered... Oh, speaking of which, there they go carrying the massage table to my massage venue.

I’ll keep you posted on all new developments and experiences here in Fiji. As of this moment I am here 2 more nights and then off to Qamea for 1 night and then J.M.Costeau for 1 night.

Moce
Melissa

p.s.. For anyone looking to get married in Fiji, Jennifer will be back in the office on 9 June and would love to share and help you plan. Jennifer will be going to Cousteau, Namale, Vatulele, Yasawa Island Resort, Wadigi.

 

June 3, 2003
Bula Bula from the Fiji Islands, Savu Savu, on the island of Vanua Levu, J.M. Cousteau Resort...

Welcome to day 5-7... With 7 being right now... On a small white sand island off of J.M. Cousteau Resort in Savu Savu.... I had reserved the island for a day picnic and massage.... So here I sit... In my thatched beach hut... Having just received a glorious 90 minute massage by Kissy (she is the best.. This island in the lagoon is the best venue I’ve ever experienced for a massage). My lunch is set up for 2 but there is only me, myself and I. They think I’m a little funny ... Ordering up lunch, champagne and a massage for only “one”. But I have to ask you... Where else could it possibly be better to write this review? I kayaked out to this island across the lagoon, and Kissy was waiting for me. Under the shade of island bush, she worked her magic... I told her she had beautiful hands ... She said the same old hands (I’ve experienced this before when my girlfriend Sue and I came here in 2001 for a week of pampering)... I told her the same old BEAUTIFUL hands. The ocean surrounded us with murmurings... The wind whooshing over the island and playing with the palm fronds above.... Kissy doing her work.. The hands of a master... The touch of gold.... And now a bottle of Vive Cliquot champagne, fresh fruits and veggie salad... My table decorated with the most incredible Fiji hibiscus... The sun streaming in... This, my friends, is what you may want to experience on your romantic holiday in Fiji.

Back tracking just a moment... When I first arrived in Fiji I stayed at Koro Sun Resort. I loved it there. They are not trying to be 5 star, they are who they are. What I told one of the owners is what happens to me every time I come to Fiji and visit a variety of resorts. Every one is my favorite... When I am there.... As you read my reviews you will notice that it may be difficult to figure out where to go. That means that I am doing my job... Of enjoying each resort for what it has to offer. Today it is J.M. Cousteau (with more reviews to follow after one of my staff, Mike Brown, shows up... We will watch the sun set over Savu Savu Bay... Drink kava... Dance the Tra-la-la with our Fijian hosts and listen to the Bula Band Boys as they weave a web of romance, allure and playfulness with their delightful Fijian music.)
Then of course, enjoy a fantastic meal which is one of the things that J.M. Cousteau is known for... But more on that later... After I tell you about Matagi Island Resort and Qamea Beach Resort...

I left Taveuni Island Resort to go to Matagi Island Resort...

It was a stormy day and the seas where less than friendly. 30 minutes of washing machine action brought us to the island resort that is at least 50% responsible for me falling in love with Fiji in 1991. My husband, Michael, and I came here as island #2 on our first vacation to Fiji. When we first were visiting the Fiji Islands, we came here on vacation. I did not have a travel company back in those days and we were on a diving holiday. What I loved the most about that vacation, and specifically about Matagi Island Resort, was that I did not put on a pair of shoes or sandals for a week. My bare feet and tootsies walked barefoot to dinner and then ate dinner barefoot. All this coupled with the fact that I loved the people, the diving, the small intimate resort, the experience of drinking the kava (not the taste of the kava mind you) and of all things... Meant that I was a goner... Fiji smitten... forever captivated by these islands. I remember dancing the hula while Chic and Tom played ukulele and spoons.... First off, I do not dance hula (they didn’t know that I was faking it) and second off... who the heck are Chic and Tom? Well, they are the sister and brother in law of Flora Douglas... The proprietress (wife of Noel) who’s Fijian family owned much of this area... Including Matagi Island. We loved everything Matagi and vacationed at this sweet little resort more than once. Arriving again, if only for a short time, brought back fond memories and so much about Matagi remained the same... please do not change. Matagi is still run by the Douglas family.. is NOT trying to be 5 star (really only 3 star) and oozes old world charm, Fiji style.. There really is no where in the northern Fiji island group that offers an affordable island/beach experience. Known more for diving than anything, Matagi offers families the opportunity to “island” together as Matagi will allow young children (increasingly difficult to find in the northern group). Traditionally the diving in the North has been it’s big draw. This is what brought us to these islands over 10 years ago. The more I visit the north the more I experience culture and people who are still part of a simpler Fiji. As the main island grows and changes, the North (and other island groups) still cling to more traditional things. Matagi also offers an affordable option for honeymooners looking for island romance with some jungle thrown in ... lounging in a thatched hut (Bure) and having the opportunity to have a private picnic on a remote beach where you can be together in tropical bliss... Yes... lovers on the beach with no one around! You might think that Families and Honeymooners don’t mix... but on Matagi... it is the ideal affordable option that still remains. It is NOT all things to all people.. it is what it is and you can choose to enjoy it no mater who you are... And, for the Tarzan and Janes out there.... try one of Matagi’s 3 treehouses.... one is really in a tree and 2 have views of the tree tops. 2 of them have outside showers and all 3 offer the most privacy you can get.

On to Qamea Beach Resort --- We originally discovered this resort when we tried to get into Matagi one year and they were sold out. So, desiring to dive in the north again, we booked into Qamea. After a 6 hour delay with our flight from Suva (this was in 1994) we arrived on Qamea and the “then owner” Jo Klaus (a lady) handed me a very strong rum punch and within 30 minutes I was seeing soft fuzzy auras around everyone... all humans... the trees.. the birds... I fell in love with Qamea. And now, 9 years later.. I arrived to experience the “new” Qamea... new owners with new vision. 5 months after a cyclone “trimmed” all the trees on the island, Qamea sparkled and glowed with a familiar softness... Although many upgrades have occurred at this petite resort, it still feels the same... attentive, relaxing, almost euphoric. The rum punch still has the same punch... and I drifted back to my Bure humming the wizard of oz... of all things. “... because of the wonderful things “it” does”. Okay, yes, not a very good song to be humming in the middle of island paradises.. but I’m just being honest! Okay.. it was the rum! After a short snooze, Sake, the Activities Director came by my Bure to beckon me to join in with the other guests in a wine tasting. So, surrounded by honeymooners... I enjoyed an evening as lovers held hands, laughed, exclaimed the joys of the days adventure or the joys of doing nothing at all... and perfumed the night air with romance and bliss. It is a sweet fragrance! It is renewing to be around.... We are the purveyors of dreams and romance and to be surrounded by these tropical lovers only solidifies why we do what we do... I think we are all hopeless romantics... feeling joy and fulfillment from assisting in planning romantic escapes.... Qamea is one of many Fiji Island Resorts that creates this romantic environment. I am lucky to have been there, with such special people, sharing in their special moments.

Back to the beginning of this review and more on yet another one of my favorite resorts.... J.M.Cousteau Resort. I really do want you to keep in mind that I am at each of these resorts for 1 or 2 nights so it is not a vacation. But, as far as work goes (Michael, my husband, is still trying to figure out how THIS is work), it’s not a bad job to have... As noted early on in this review, I immersed myself in a pampering experience on the island. As the sun began to set, I paddled my kayak back to the resort to get cleaned up for dinner. When you stay on the ocean point, the island is just a hop skip and a jump away. I was in Bure 25. The last 2 times I have been here I have been in Bure 24.. which now has a jacuzzi on the deck. I almost invited myself over to Michelle's’ Bure (she is a travel writer) but I controlled myself and decided that “next time” I am here at J.M. Cousteau Resort I must stay in Bure 24. Again and again I experience the amazing friendliness of the resort staff. Food is fantastic, attention to detail is wonderful and the staff make you feel like you, and only you, are the most important person on the face of the earth. Cousteau is warm and friendly... enveloping you in a sense of well being. Relax, breathe, soak in the sense of nature and peace. I spoke to many members of a Yoga group that were visiting the resort (I think they did yoga 30 minutes each day and then went about the task of loving life at Cousteau). Seeing Fiji and these resorts through the eyes of new visitors is like seeing life through the eyes of a child. It is all about “wonder” and “joy”.

After dinner we sat around the Tanoa bowl drinking the pacific island drink called Kava. You sit cross legged (the older I get the harder it is to do), clap once, drink the muddy tasting liquid, clap 3 times and say MOTHA... which means finished... Then the band boys play guitar and ukulele and sing the most delightful songs... harmonizing in a way that makes you smile in a dreamy sort of way. Above the southern cross twinkles... the towering palms flit to and fro in the nights tropical breezes... and Fiji captures my heart once again. It really is magic and it might be the reason that I keep coming back for more... and more .... and more and more.....

Thank heavens for Fiji... sweet dreams
Moce Mataka (good bye until tomorrow)


June 11, 2003
Fiji on Location at Namale Resort Spa & Sanctuary.

Namale Spa and Sanctuary is nothing less than a Heaven on Earth with Fiji's most incredible venue and spa treatments. With names like "Sacred Massage", "Journey of Joy", "Ayurvedic Healing Rituals", and "Return to Romance" you know that you are in for one of a kind pampering. Recently completed, Namale's Spa is absolute oceanfront with several "thatched" treatment areas looking over the cliff and foliage. Namale Resort & Spa Sanctuary was the first resort to be built in the North of Fiji, by Robin Mercer, Fiji's premier bird authority at that time. He planted the grounds with flowering trees and bushes to entice birds to frequent the grounds. And they do...
Namale Resort and Spa Sanctuary is located on Vanua Levu, just outside Savu Savu town, about 10 minutes from the airport. The Namale family greeted me with song and a flower "salu salu" upon my arrival. The familiar faces smiled warmth and sincere welcome. Namale sparkled like a rare gem in the Steamy tropical sun... I was offered a CD menu (all rooms are equipped with some type of CD player) and a wine list... so they could stock my bure with wines of my choice. I was taken to my not so humble abode...

The Grand Bula Villa. When you walk up to your Bure at Namale (all Bures) . . your names, carved in wood, is hanging on your door. For any couple looking for the ultimate in romantic environs ... this Luxury Villa would be my first recommendation in all of Fiji. Perched on a cliff with an outdoor stairway down to the ocean, this enchanting Villa offers a split level bedroom area, jacuzzi tub in the bathroom, outdoor shower, plunge pool (so nice and cooool) and a jacuzzi on the deck overlooking the ocean. The sofas in the bedroom and living room were similar to sinking in to soft cotton. The sound system was indoor/outdoor with a 100+ CD changer. You can bring your own CD's or they will provide to you upon check-in. Bula Grand villa is the only Bure with air conditioning. It also has a pool table (fun to have just in case you need it). The delightfully private and plush bure not only meets expectations but exceeds them. 3 walls are almost completely glass louvers creating a feeling of having the jungle inside your bure. The beds at Namale offer the most sensuous sheets and bedding in Fiji (that I have experienced to date). The 4 poster bamboo bed with draped mosquito netting is inviting from the moment you arrive. Yabaki, the lady that takes care of my bure, created the most beautiful heart made of flowers on my bed. It was the most creative flower display I have ever seen in my 12 years of visiting Fiji. When I arrived, there was a bottle of French Champagne waiting in a wine bucket overflowing with tropical flowers and foliage. A heart of flowers was framing the wine bucket. Vibrant colored flowers decorating the bure.. on tables, on the bed, in the bathroom, the shower, the pool deck... Everywhere I turned my eyes were filled with color. The hibiscus here come in every tantalizing color you can think of. The use of flowers is not exclusive to Namale... they have just made a work of art out of the use of them. Honestly.. like no other resort I have been to in Fiji and I have been to most of them.

The Spa Sanctuary at Namale is the most lavishing spa experience in Fiji. Walk up the stairs to this clifftop oceanfront Spa and Fijian ladies open the two doors for you as you enter the sound of exotic music, water falling and the seductive scent of exotic aroma oils. Immediately the stress starts to melt. I had signed up for a tandem massage. After you put your robe on, you are seated in overstuffed chairs and overstuffed pillows where you lay back while your feet and calves are pre-pampered for 10 minutes. A gentle cleansing massage using scented oils... I was one step closer to Nirvana. I was then invited to the treatment room, moving at a snails pace. In my treatment room exotic relaxing music danced through the air intermingling with the swirling patchouli, lemon balm and ylang ylang fragrances I had chosen. It was an intoxicating experience as the 2 massage therapists began their magic, one leading and the other following, like a waltz with dancing fingers over my limp body. Over one hour later... As my spirit soared over my body in pure delight... My therapists applied petite reverberating ancient bells to my abdomen and spine to the sound of perfectly orchestrated music.... Gyongngngngngngn..... Gyongngngngngngn.... Ahhh.... After my heavenly massage I went to the water treatment room... The view almost knocks you off your feet... Sitting right over the ocean in full view of the blow hole... You lounge in the large jacuzzi filled with one of the most spectacular views you can imagine. The waterfall treatment is the best.... Sitting under the pounding water to work your neck, shoulders and back. There is a cold plunge pool and a sauna and 4 aroma treatment pools. I left the Spa and languorously floated back to my Bure...
Last night I was sitting at the water's edge as the sun slipped behind the Velvety green hills above Nandi village. Pink feathered clouds wisped across the aquarium sky as their reflection danced in the shallow tide pools in front of me. The ethereal sounding Vanua Levu honeyeaters serenaded and the emotions came... it was my last night at Namale and it felt like I was tearing myself away from a new lover whose embrace was like no other.. I closed my eyes and breathed in the sweet spiced air of this environment.. A sanctuary for the heart and soul.

Namale has always been my lover. Ever since I first stepped foot on the property in 1991. And now, after at least 6 visits, I find myself even more enthralled in this magical place that creates emotions of love and joy... I felt such sadness to leave... and such thankfulness to have been able to experience once again. I counted my blessings...

You must visit Namale... It has a Bure with YOUR name on it...

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